The two tour options we had planned for seeing penguins in Punta Arenas were booked. Fortunately, one of the folks from the family who owns Ilaia Hotel called a driver named Fritz, who drove us out to the penguin preserve at Seno Otway in a private minibus. Much better way to go, it turns out. There weren’t a huge number of penguins, as it’s late summer and most have moved on, but there were enough to keep us entertained for a while. We had no idea we would be able to get so close.